Take a step back in time, when life was much simpler. See Hawai‘i as it was in all its natural beauty, untainted by major developments, large crowds, and traffic jams. It’s quite a shock upon first arrival, especially if you’re coming from a densely populated city like Honolulu. From the plunging sea cliffs to the empty beaches, it’s an ideal place to find peace and tranquility. While you stroll across a pristine stretch of uncrowded beach, you might wonder why tourists aren’t flocking here all at once. Moloka‘i doesn’t cater to tourists as strongly as the other main Hawaiian islands, which makes it unique. Don’t expect luxury resorts, commercial tour buses, and shopping malls. Take this opportunity to learn the history of Hawai‘i’s rich cultural past.
As the saying goes, “slow down, this is Moloka‘i”.
Getting to Moloka‘i
You will most likely be catching a flight from either neighboring Maui or Oahu. Makani Kai Air is the most affordable option without the hassle of going through the whole airport ordeal. If you fly out from Oahu, their terminal is located off Lagoon Drive, with paid parking stalls available if you need to park your car during your time away. It may be important to note that you’ll be riding a small propeller plane to get there. The best part about the flight is that you can enjoy scenic overhead views of Ala Moana, Waikiki, Diamond Head, and the green farmlands of Moloka‘i.
Staying on the Island
Located just five minutes from town, Hotel Moloka‘i is the island’s only official hotel. The units consist of unique Polynesian-inspired cottages positioned along Kamiloloa Beach. Take a short walk to the beach where you can view the island of Lanai.
There are many private rental options available such as Kaluakoi Villas at Kepuhi Beach on the west side and Wavecrest on the east side. Airbnb and Vrbo are great places to start your search. Rates are typically affordable but may fill up during the holidays. Near Kepuhi beach, you will see wild turkeys and peacocks grazing across the grassy hills in the morning.
Transportation
There is no public transportation on Moloka‘i, so securing a rental car is essential to planning your stay. If you wait until the last minute on a busy holiday weekend, you could risk the chance of coming up empty-handed. There are several local car rental businesses, but availability is limited. If you’re lucky you might find a vacation rental with a vehicle available for you to rent.
Getting around the island is fairly straightforward. There is one main road extending out from Kauanakakai with Kamehameha V Highway heading east and Mauna Loa Highway towards the west. There are two gas stations both located down the street from each other in Kaunakakai. Gas prices are significantly higher than the rest of the islands, but don’t let that stop you from exploring. Take caution while driving as it is common to see wild deer jolting across the roadways. At night you can see their reflective eyes shining back at you from the sides of the road.
Where to eat
The majority of the restaurants and grocery stores are located in the central town of Kaunakakai. If you’re lodging somewhere on the east or west end of the island, it would be wise to stock up on food on your way in from the airport. There are two full-service grocery stores, Misaki’s Grocery and Friendly Market Center, that are located within a block of each other.
- Kualapu‘u Cookhouse: This cozy little eatery offers local comfort dishes that are sure to satisfy your hunger. Unlike the majority of the island’s restaurants that are clustered in the main town, this diner is located 10 minutes north of Kaunakakai. It’s important to note that they operate on cash-only transactions.
- Maka’s Corner: Get your classic Hawaiian plate lunch with choices like loco moco, teri chicken, hamburger steak, along with saimin, burgers, and assorted breakfast items.
- Moloka‘i Pizza Cafe: If you’re craving pasta, pizza, ribs, chicken dinners, sandwiches, or a fresh salad, this is the place to go.
- Moloka‘i Burger: In addition to burgers, menu items include local-style plate lunches, fried snacks, and desserts. Find this joint on the opposite side of the parking lot from Moloka‘i Pizza Cafe.
- Kamoi Snack-n-Go: Serving up the famous Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream. I grew up on the cotton candy flavor, but I can’t resist the kulolo, ube, and green tea. Over 50 original flavors are made fresh daily in Hawai‘i.
- Moloka‘i Hot Bread: Handmade freshly baked bread stuffed with your choice of strawberry, creme-cheese, blueberry, butter, cinnamon, or “Da Works” which is a combination of all the flavors (my personal favorite). The line starts to form after dark around the back entrance of Kanemitsu Bakery. This is a Moloka‘i staple and makes for a delicious late-night snack.
Points of interest
Whether you plan on going fishing, sightseeing, or just taking a stroll on one of the many secluded beaches, make it a point to get out and explore. It’s unlike anything you’ll see on the other nearby islands.
- Kalaupapa: Protruding out from the tallest sea cliffs in the world on the island’s northern coast, is the Kalaupapa peninsula. In 1866 King Kamehameha V established it as a place of exile for individuals infected with leprosy (aka Hansen’s disease) due to its isolated location. Kalaupapa can’t be mentioned without the story of Father Damien. He was a Belgian priest who sacrificed himself to care for the people suffering from the terrible disease. Sadly, after serving the patients for 16 years, he succumbed to the disease in 1889. Today, there are a few surviving patients residing at Kalaupapa.
The peninsula is accessible via hike, mule ride, or plane. The mule ride option is a one-of-a-kind experience and I highly recommend it. The trail consists of a 1,700-foot descent with 26 switchbacks along the way. Once you arrive at the settlement, you will be guided on an educational tour around Kalaupapa, stopping at significant landmarks along the way. You can reserve your tour at Kalaupapa Mule Ride.
- Hālawa Valley: Located on the island’s east end, you’ll find lush green valley walls extending alongside the Hālawa Stream. Deep in the valley are two waterfalls, one of which is accessible by a guided cultural hike. The hiking path crosses private property, so you will need a guide to access the area. You can book a tour through Hālawa Valley Falls Cultural Hike, led by native resident Greg Solatorio. He will teach you about the valley’s history and share the culture in which he was raised.
- Kaunakakai Harbor: This is the longest wharf in Hawai‘i and is a great place to fish, enjoy a meal, catch the sunset, or all of the above!
- Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove: Located just off the main road in Kaunakakai, you can’t miss the field of towering coconut trees. They are best viewed from outside of the gates, because there is a danger of being struck by falling coconuts. Ouch! These trees were planted back in the 1860s for King Kamehameha V and covered approximately 10 acres of land. It has since diminished greatly with only a couple hundred last surviving palms.
- Pālāʻau State Park: Take a peek over at the Kalaupapa Peninsula from 1,000 feet above. If you follow the path through the ironwood forest, you will find the Phallic Rock, a stone formation that is thought to have the power of fertility.
Beaches
With an abundance of beaches across the island, you may be surprised to find that you are the only one there. There’s a good chance you may encounter a Hawaiian monk seal taking a rest on the beach. If you do, just remember to keep your distance because they are classified as an endangered species. Approaching too closely may cause the animal to feel threatened, which in turn may cause them to react aggressively. I won’t name every beach but will highlight a few worth checking out.
- Kepuhi Beach: An easily walkable stretch of beach fronting the Kaluakoi Villas on the west side. During the summer months, larger waves roll in, drawing surfers out to get a piece of the action.
- Pāpōhaku Beach: Also known as the “Three Mile Beach,” it’s one of the largest white sand beaches in Hawai‘i. See if you can make out the east end of Oahu in the distance.
- Make Horse (aka Pohaku Mauliuli Beach): A secluded little beach tucked away just north of Kepuhi Beach. I have not seen a single soul in the handful of times visiting this spot.
- Dixie Maru Cove (aka Kapukahehu Beach): This small crescent-shaped beach is located at the end of Pāpōhaku Road on the west side. The name “Dixie Maru” came from the name of a fishing boat that crashed into the rocks of the bay in the 1920s. Be careful where you step because there are painful thorns in the sand from the kiawe trees that line the beach.
- Mo‘omomi Beach: The beach is located on the northwest coast of the island and is a bit difficult to access. It is the home of wind-blown sand dunes stretching across for miles.
- Hālawa Beach: At the base of Hālawa Valley, there are two beaches that make up Hālawa Bay. They offer all-around stunning views of both the valley and the surrounding coastline.
Tips
- Always respect the land and residents. Leave nothing behind but your footprints in the sand. Although a rare sight, if you see trash on the beach, pick it up and leave the place better than you found it.
- Pack a light jacket if you’re planning on visiting higher elevations where the air is cool and moist.
- Keep a container of drinking water on hand and stay hydrated. Conditions can get hot and dry, particularly on the west side. You may find yourself in a spot without clean water available.
If you need some pointers to prepare for your trip to Hawai‘i, then head over to this post: Hawai‘i Travel Tips: Know Before You Go
